Tools for Cutting Mouldings

Scratchstock-1Scratchstock-3On many longrifles, there are mouldings along the forearm (usually the upper forearm) and along toe of the buttstock. Most often these are simple raised moldings cut in with a knife or chisel and then relieved behind the cut with the chisel or knife. The moulding is usually cleaned up using a slim triangular file with the tip ground off forming a scraping surface. The photo to the right shows a lower buttstock moulding cut with just the knife and the chisel.

Scratchstock-2

For more complex mouldings, a scratchstock may be useful. The scratchstock shown here was made for the unusual moulding found on a group of Rockbridge Country Virginia guns (including John Davidson) and applied to my Gun #10. The blade in this scratchstock is ground to produce both the upper forearm moulding and the buttstock toe moulding. To use the scratchstock, the top bar runs along the top of the barrel channel to cut the forearm moulding and along the toe for the lower buttstock moulding. Only part of the buttstock moulding nearest the butt can be cut with the scratch stock and it can be more trouble than it is worth. The scratchstock is most useful for the upper forearm moulding, but it does take a lot of passes to cut the moulding. You have to shape the upper forearm as close as you can to finished dimensions before you apply the scratchstock.

One important note about the finish produced by the scratchstock. Since you are holding the scraper blade parallel to the curl in the stock, the scraper blade with ride up and down on the hard and soft curl producing a ripple effect. I know of no way to avoid this with a scratchstock. The ripples are a consequence, and an indication, of the method used to shape the forearm. Other places that you use a scraper, you can hold the scraper diagonal to the curl to avoid leaving ripples. Ripples in a highly figured stock are part and parcel of shaping and finishing with scrapers, but in most other places it can be minimized. It just can’t be minimized where a scratchstock is used.

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Wallace Gusler Muzzle Blasts Articles

Below is a list of the Muzzle Blasts articles by or about Wallace Gusler. Wallace Gusler is one of the foremost experts on southern longrifles, particularly Virginia longrifles. Many of the articles focus on rare iron mounted rifles. I am listing the issue, the title, and the first page. This may not be a complete list. These are just among the issues that I saved, and I only save issues that have particular interest for me. I have been told that back issues of Muzzle Blasts are available from the NMLRA for a nominal fee.

  1. September 2003; Inventory of Robert Milburn, Frederick County, Virgnia; p.46.
  2. November 2003; “A rifle gun barrel & mountings”; p.48.*
  3. January 2004; Wallace Gusler, Master Gunsmith by Gary Brumfield; p.4.
  4. March 2004; “Attributing the Old Holston Rifle”; p.4.*
  5. July 2004; An Early Shenandoah Valley Iron Mounted Rifle Gun; p.11.*
  6. September 2004; A Fine Iron Mounted Rifle; p.36.*
  7. January 2005;An 18th Century Moravian Rifle Gun from North Carolina; p.4.
  8. March 2005;An 18th Century Moravian Rifle Gun from North Carolina; p.4.
  9. July 2005;An 18th Century Moravian Rifle Gun from North Carolina; p.4.
  10. November 2005;An 18th Century Moravian Rifle Gun from North Carolina; p.4.
  11. March 2006; A Fine Iron Mounted Rifle from the Valley of Virginia; p.60.*
  12. January 2007; A Lancaster – Pennsyslvania Rifle Gun with Southern Connections; p.4.
  13. March 2007; Possible Origin of G.F. Fanot’s Box Design; p.13.
  14. July 2007; An Important Tennessee Iron Mounted Rifle Gun – Part 1; p.4.*
  15. July 2007; An Important Tennessee Iron Mounted Rifle Gun – Part 2; p.4.*
  16. November 2007; A Valley of Virginia Rifle Gun Used in Kentucky; p.36.*
  17. March 2008; Early Virginia-Pennsylvania Rifle; p.4.*
  18. May 2008; An In-use Restocked Smooth-bored Rifle Gun; p.50.*
  19. September 2008; American Frontier and Backcountry Flintlock Terminology 1730-1830; p.4.**
  20. December 2008; Backcountry and Frontier Flintlock Terminology; p.4.**
  21. June 2009; A Rosetta Stone North Carolina Rifle Gun Part 1; p.50.
  22. August 2009; A Rosetta Stone North Carolina Rifle Gun Part 2; p.50.
  23. December 2009; Shot Bags/Shot Pouches – Part 1; p.?.
  24. May 2010; Shot Bags/Shot Pouches – Part 2; p.7.
  25. June 2010; An Early Virginia Shot Bag and 18th Century Powder Measure; p.4.
  26. December 2011; A French and Indian War Rifle Gun, Part 1; p.43.
  27. August 2012; Rifles by “GB” in the Step Toe Group, Rockbridge and Botetourt Counties, Virginia; p.47.*
  28. December 2014; Rifle Guns in the “GB” Group, Number 2; p.6.*
  29. February 2016, The Twentieth Century Story of Two Extraordinary Frontier Guns, Part 1; p.6.*
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Firearms Photography 101

studio strobes and soft boxes for firearms photograhpyAs I am only able to do a few photography shoots a years, at best, I thought that I would share what I have learned about firearms photography so that others can duplicate it. Here is a link to a .PDF document that will guide you through how to take professional quality photographs of firearms and accouterments: Firearms Photography 101

This document is a updated version of a presentation I gave at Dixons Gunmaker’s Fair a couple years ago. It goes over the basics of using your camera for firearms photography and how to stage and light your guns. Specifically, I talk about my lighting system using studio strobes and soft/strip boxes as well as how to use the paint with light technique. I have added some recommendations for point and shoot cameras and photos of my lighting setup. You can duplicate my studio lighting setup for a little over $1000 which isn’t that much at all in the realm of photography, or gun collecting.

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18th Century Bow Drills for Drilling Retaining Pins in Gunstocks

I was getting ready to install pins in my most recent rifle and wondered how would this have been done in the 18th century. I normally use a couple twist drills (1/16″ and 5/64″) and my cordless electric drill. So, I asked that question on ALR, and after reading a number of the responses, I came up with the following simple bow drills as a solution. They were turned out of hard maple and the axle at the top and drills are music wire. I used 1/8″ for the top pivot/axle, and I used 1/16″ and 5/64″ music wire for the drill bits. I sharpened them like an 18th century metal cutting bit for a brace.

18th century style simple wooden bow drills for drilling pin holes in muzzle loading gun stocks

For the time being, I am using a hickory rod for the bow with some artificial sinew for the bow string. I have an old foil blade that I am going to use to make a more period correct bow with a little take up reel at the hilt/handle for the string. I will forge a little loop in the tip of the blade to attache the other end of the string.

The way you use these is to punch the location of the pin hole with an awl. Then insert the drill bit tip into the hole with the bow string already around the drill spool. You use the little paddle shown to hold the other end of the drill. You will notice little holes in the paddle for the top axle of the drill. It is a little awkward to get started, but once you do, you can drill the distance to the barrel tenon or thimble tab in a minute or two. You just mark the tenon or tab and then remove it to drill it with a regular metal bit for a brace.

With the bow drill, you would drill one side of the stock and then drill the other side using the 1/16″ bit. Then with the drilled tenon or tab back in place, drill through with the 5/64″ bit. The second 5/64″ drill should line up all the holes nice and tight. At least that is the plan. I haven’t actually installed a thimble with them yet.

I still have to make 1/16″ and 5/64″ metal cutting bits with a lantern stock chuck and tapered square adapter for a brace. I will need the adapter because the little drills will be made of music wire and be for use in a lantern stock chuck. I plan to make another bow drill with a lantern stock chuck for these little drill bits. That will be the subject of another posting.

18th century style simple wooden bow drills for drilling pin holes in muzzle loading gun stocks

18th century style simple wooden bow drills for drilling pin holes in muzzle loading gun stocks

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Fraktur Illustrations

Original Fraktur Illustrations

Shown here are some of my original designs inspired by 18th and 19th Century fraktur. Fraktur is the term for the illuminated documents created in the 18th & 19th centuries by German speaking immigrants. The originals (as opposed to prints) of the designs shown here are hand drawn, hand inked, and hand colored using period correct water colors. These and my other illustrations are not a copy of antique fraktur but an expression of my own vision and creativity using cohesive motifs from antique documents. These and all my other illustrations of this size are done on 60lb, A4 (8.27″x11.7″), hot-pressed, acid free, ink and calligraphy paper from Sennelier. The work on A4 paper can be matted for an 11″x14″ frame. The prices of the original illustrations will vary depending on the time it took to complete them and whether they are framed, plus 5.3% VA Sales tax (for VA residents) and $10 shipping. Unframed and unmatted prints can be purchased for just $19 on the same paper as the original.

Birds of Paradise

Purely decorative contemporary framed fraktur water color of stylized birds and flowers.
Water color of stylized birds and flowers in a faux painted frame.

Print – Birds of Paradise – $19

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in purchasing one of the illustrations shown above. Make sure to mention the title of the illustration and whether you want the original (if available) or the print.


Celebration

Water color of a green parot and a fireworks of flowers mounted in a hand painted frame.
Water color of a green parot and a fireworks of flowers mounted in a faux painted frame.

Original Framed Water Color – Celebration – $99

Print – Celebration – $19

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in purchasing one of the illustrations shown above. Make sure to mention the title of the illustration and whether you want the original (if available) or the print.


Blossoming of Faith

Framed fraktur type water color representative of the Blossoming of Faith.


Print – Blossoming of Faith – $19

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in purchasing one of the illustrations shown above. Make sure to mention the title of the illustration and whether you want the original (if available) or the print.


Tree of Life

Water color of spiritual tree of life with wheat, thistles, flowers, and an angel

Original Water Color – Tree of Life – $49

Print – Tree of Life – $19

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in purchasing one of the illustrations shown above. Make sure to mention the title of the illustration and whether you want the original (if available) or the print.


Fraktur Christmas Tree

Illustration of a Pennsylvania Dutch style Christmas tree.

Print – Fraktur Christmas Tree – $19

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in purchasing one of the illustrations shown above. Make sure to mention the title of the illustration and whether you want the original (if available) or the print.


12 Point Star

Illustration of yellow and blue 12 point star design reminiscent of Pennsylvania Dutch hex signs.

Print – 12 Point Star – $19

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in purchasing one of the illustrations shown above. Make sure to mention the title of the illustration and whether you want the original (if available) or the print.


Strickler 2

colorful decorative work after 19th Century Valley of Virginia fraktur artist Jacob Strickler.

Print – Strickler2 – $19

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in purchasing one of the illustrations shown above. Make sure to mention the title of the illustration and whether you want the original (if available) or the print.


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Fraktur Documents

Below are examples of a hand lettered and hand colored Geburts Schein (Birth Certificate) and a Haus Segen (House Blessing). These are my original designs, and are available printed on heavy weight, A4 size paper. Either one of these designs could be used for a Geburtschein, a Taufschein (Baptismal Certificate), a marriage certificate, a Haus Segen, or any similar document. I will inscribe your’s or your loved one’s birth or baptismal record, marriage record, favorite blessing or other similar text on either of the designs shown. The hand lettered and hand colored prints of the original designs shown on this page are $49 each for any of the documents mentioned. Shipping is $10, and there is 5.3% sales tax for VA residents.

You need to understand that these are not prints of finished works. I simply print an original design of mine on the paper as a starting point. The paper may be aged or not; your choice. Then I re-ink the lines where I feel it is necessary, add additional art where appropriate, layout and inscribe the fraktur text using calligraphy ink, and then do the coloring with period correct water colors. The hand coloring and lettering will vary from one document to another. No two documents using the same design are going to be exactly alike.

I addition to the hand lettered and hand colored prints of previous designs; I can produce an original, exclusive design; hand drawn, hand inked, hand lettered, and hand colored in any type or style you like. I can create an all original Geburtschein (birth certificate), Taufschein (baptism (and birth) certificate, Haus Segen (house blessing), marriage certificate, or a purely decorative work. Actually, I could create a fraktur style document to commemorate most any event. A completely original small size document (A4 – 8.27″ X 11.7″, 60lb, hot press, Sennelier Ink & Calligraphy paper), matted for a 11″x14″ frame, costs $129. An large size document will be created on one quarter sheet (approx. 11″ x 15″) of Arches 140lb cold press paper (the best laid cotton paper you can get these days), matted for a 16″ x 20″ frame, will cost $179. Use the Contact page to inquire about such custom work. I will want to talk to you on the phone about it to make sure I understand what you want. I will then send you a contract with the details for you to sign and return with a check.

Shipping, packaging and insurance on all paper items are $10. Virginia residents must pay 5.3% VA Sales Tax. Please allow two to four weeks for delivery.

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in contracting for a fraktur document. Make sure to include your phone number so that I can call you about the project.

Geburtschein (Birth Certificate)

Hand lettered and hand colored Geburtschein using Design 1 (the small heart was added) in a Faux Painted Frame
Hand lettered and hand colored Geburtschein using Design 1 (the small heart was added) in a Faux Painted Frame

Hand colored and hand lettered Geburts Schein print – $49

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in contracting for a fraktur document. Make sure to include your phone number so that I can call you about the project.

Haus Segen (House Blessing)

Hand lettered and hand colored Haus Segen using Design 2 in a Faux Painted Frame
Hand lettered and hand colored Haus Segen using Design 2 in a Faux Painted Frame

Hand colored and hand lettered Haus Segen print – $49

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in contracting for a fraktur document. Make sure to include your phone number so that I can call you about the project.

Vorschrift

A Vorschrift is a lettering example usually done by school masters for the use of their students. Below is a Vorschrift I did for my own reference, but I will also do a hand lettered and hand colored copy for you. It is available for $49 each.

Vorschrift - School Master Lettering Sample 2
Vorschrift – School Master Lettering Sample 2 in a Faux Painted Frame

Original Fraktur Water Color – Vorschrift 2 – $49

Please use this Contact Form if you are interested in contracting for a fraktur document. Make sure to include your phone number so that I can call you about the project.


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Appraising Antique Firearms

I get lots of requests for appraisals on antique rifles. Consequently, I felt I should make a general blog and FAQ post on the subject.

In order to properly estimate the value of an antique firearm, it must be closely inspected, in person, including disassembly. Additionally, you should seek out an appraiser who routinely buys and sells similar antiques. Still, any appraisal you get is just a guess based on previous sales of similar items. Any given item offered for sale is really only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

A value can vary substantially depending on the location of a sale and how well advertised it is; in other words, the potential market. This is why you are likely to get more for something on eBay than Craigslist where you have a national (or international) market instead of a local market.

The current economy also has a lot to do with how much something is worth. The values of all collectibles and antiques were at record highs in 2008, just before the collapse of the financial markets. This collapse significantly affected those with the most disposable income and most likely to purchase luxury goods such as antique firearms. The antique firearms market was been hit hard by this shock to the economy. The values of most antique firearms are half what they were before 2008. The very best firearms held their value, but the rest were hit hard.

The antique longrifle market has been further impacted by a large number of collections hitting the market right now due to the aging of collectors. People with money can get a good deal on average quality longrifles right now. That is not good news for someone with an average longrifle to sell.

If you would like an appraisal on your Virginia longrifle, I would direct you to Tim Hodges at Aspen Shade Ltd. He is very familiar with Virginia longrifles and should be able to help you with an appraisal or consignment. Otherwise, I would seek advise from one of the major auction houses that have specialists in firearms, such as James D Julia or Cowan’s Auctions




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18th Century Gunsmithing Tools, Metal Cutting Brace Bits

Below are a couple of metal cutting drill bits for a brace, and the holes they bored in a 1/8″ thick brass plate. Also shown is an 18th century style countersink. I ground and sharpened the drill bits to form approximately 3/16″ and 1/4″ holes. The countersunk hole fits a #10 tang screw.

18th century metal cutting drill bits and countersink for a brace and the holes they formed in a brass plate
18th century metal cutting drill bits and countersink for a brace; and the holes they formed in a brass plate
Close-up of 18th century metal cutting drill bits and a countersink for a brace.
Close-up of 18th century metal cutting drill bits and a countersink for a brace.

The bits are ground to a basic “V” shape with a slight backward rake (cutting clockwise) on the two cutting edges. You also must grind the flat side down to a point at the tip. If you don’t grind the tip to a small point, then you will end up with an uneven hole and a little pip at the center like you often get turning inside a piece of wood. I ground my tool bits to shape with a 2″x72″ belt sander, and then honed them with 2″x8″ Diamond stones mounted on my bench. I use Diamond stones, with 260 and 600 grit, to shape (the main bevel) and sharpen all my edged tools; and I use them often.

Sharpened as above, the bits and countersink shown, cut out big thick chips of brass,just like it was cutting wax. It didn’t take more than two minutes each to drill those holes. I rarely have anything thicker than about 1/8″ to drill. About the only thing thicker, would be the lock nail hole through the lock bolster, at about 1/4.” A fine grain wrought iron lock plate isn’t much harder than brass.

I plan to make three tap drills for the internal lock screws, the lock nails, and the top jaw screw. The 3/16″ bit and countersink shown will handle all the clear holes.




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18th Century Gunsmithing Tools, Screw Plate & Circle Cutter

I just added a few more 18th century gunsmithing tools to my tool kit. One is a pristine early screw plate, probably from the late 18th century or early 19th century. I don’t think this thing has ever been used. It appears to still have the temper colors on it. At least it did, until I started using it ;).

The other tool is a square shank circle cutter for use with a brace. However, I didn’t buy it as a circle cutter. I thought that with the addition of an appropriately sized dowel on the center point as a pilot, I could use it to cut circles on the muzzles of barrels. Southern longrifles were often decorated on the muzzle with engraved circles, and stamped circles and stars. I had been meaning to make one as most of the ones in period gunmakers’ tool boxes were apparently homemade. However, I saw this thing on ebay for less than $20. I snapped it up as quick as I could. I had never seen one before and didn’t know any such thing existed as a commercial product.

NewTools-1

Below are a couple photos showing the screw plate with a few modern screws that fit that plate. I also measured the root diameter of the holes in the screw plate using wire number twist drills. The fit of the drills is between .001″-.003″. I have also shown the data associated with using #4 and #6 machine screw blanks to cut screws using the screw plate. I will continue working to develop a set of tap drills, square reamers, taps, and screw mills from this screw plate to cut the screws required of a flint lock. This is all part of the project to build a handmade silver mounted pistol.

18th century screw plate fitted with modern screws.hey formed in a brass plate
18th century screw plate fitted with modern screws.
18th century screw plate data.
18th century screw plate data.

I have learned the hard way that it is very easy to twist off a screw blank in this screw plate and very hard to get out the broken bit. I was able to drill out and pick out most of the metal, but some was stuck down in a thread. It is hard to clean out a 4-48 thread. I made a tap, using the smaller hole, and a screw blank which I case hardened. If I was planning to use it more than once, I would have forged it out of a piece of w-1, but using the screw blank was quick and easy. It worked just fine.

New 18th century style tap made for Antique 18th Century screw plate
New 18th century style tap made for Antique 18th Century screw plate

Anyway, I have learned that the screw blank needs to be smaller than I would normally think due to the expansion from swaging; and that I need to be very careful about the pressure I apply.

It is starting to look like a blank that fits in the next hole up is about the right diameter for swaging the thread in the chosen threaded hole.




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The Best Cleaner/Degreaser

A lot of you probably already know this, but I thought that I would repeat the information for the un-informed. Dawn® dishwashing detergent is the best commonly available cleaner and degreaser there is. For those of you who still wash you pots, pans, dishes, and silverware (especially actual silver) by hand, you know that a few drops of Dawn® does wonders in the kitchen; but did you know it is one of the best degreasers there is. I have tried all the normal chemicals such as the various alcohols, acetone, paint thinner, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, and turpentine (Yes, I still use turpentine to thin oil paint; and Yes, I do know it is a carcinogen.). However, a quick scrub in the utility sink with some Dawn® in cold water is the quickest, easiest, most effective, and safest method I know to get rid of oil and wax. I clean all my barrels(plug all the openings), lock plates, etc…, that I want to blue, brown or otherwise chemically finish, with Dawn®. Because it is mostly harmless, you don’t have to worry about getting it on you, or breathing it in. Just scrub the part like it is a dirty dish, and dry it off with a towel. All done!

But wait; there’s more! Dawn® also does a better job cleaning all the oils, waxes, and general gunk off your hands than some of the purpose made, and expensive, products I buy at the hardware store. It is also more effective at removing stains in carpets than some of the very expensive purpose made products. There is little that cold water, Dawn®, a wash cloth and/or scrub brush won’t get out. So, don’t bother with the expensive and dangerous cleaners and degreasers; just reach for the bottle of Dawn® in the kitchen.

Disclaimer: I don’t have stock in P&G and was not paid by P&G for this posting. 😉

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