Workbench with tools; files, chisels, gouges, hammer, scrapers, etc...

Tools on My Bench?

Workbench with tools

Workbench with tools

Workbench with tools

Workbench with tools

I had the thought one day that it might be interesting to list out all the tools I had out on my benches. As I worked on the project, I thought that it might be a better idea to expand the list to not only those tools that are normally out on my benches, but all the tools I generally use in gun building. That is what is listed here; all the tools normally employed in the creation of an iron mounted flintlock rifle. I say iron mounted because I build a lot of those guns and that pulls in the forge more than a brass mounted gun. Only hand tools are shown or listed. However, I do use a few power tools for gun making. They include a 14″ bandsaw and a floor standing drill press. I also couldn’t get along without my trusty DeWalt 18V Li-ion drill/driver/hammer-drill, the greatest tool since the invention of the brace. I also use an electric heat gun for whiskering, and turning aqua fortis; and an electric heat treat oven. I use a 2″x72″ belt sander for grinding off pins and the like. I also use a flex shaft grinder with an abrasive cutoff wheel for cutting music wire for pins. That is pretty much it for the power tools, and I am in the process of eliminating the band saw, substituting a rip saw for trimming the forearm of the stock.


Abrasives

  • Small homemade sanding block for roll abrasives
  • 120 grit 1″ roll of emery cloth
  • 320 grit 1″ roll of emery cloth
  • 400 grit silicon paper
  • 600 grit silicon paper

Adhesives

  • Titebond III waterproof wood glue
  • Thick & thin cyanoacrylate glue
  • 5 minute epoxy for holding engraving work
  • Bondo for holding engraving work

Boring Tools

  • Antique metal body brace w/1/4″, 3/8″, & 3/4″ spur bits
  • Gimlets: 5/64″ – 3/16″
  • Twist drills: 1/16″-1/2″, 1-80, A-Z
  • Hand held 3/4″ 82 degree countersink
  • 1/2″ 82 degree countersink for power drill
  • 11/32″ ramrod drill bit – I only use this size for 40-54 caliber even though I have other sizes. I have two this size; one sharpened with a conical point to do most of the work and one with a flat cutting edge to start the hole.
  • 3/8″ couter-bore with #8 and #10 pilots for side plate screw holes

Chisels

  • Bench: 1/4″, 1/2″, 1″
  • Morticing: 1/8″, 3/32″
  • Stamping: 3/32″
  • European No.(sweep/width mm) Gouges: 1/2, 1/3, 1/5, 1S/5, 3/16, 5/8, 5/12, 6/14, 7/6, 7/10, 8/3, 8/4, 9/2, 9/5, 9/7, 12/1, 12/3, 21/6
  • Nylon brush for cleaning carving

Clamps

  • 4X 6″ Quick Clamps
  • 4X 12″ Quick Clamps
  • 2X 18″ Quick Clamps
  • 10X parallel jaw machinists clamps
  • 6X 4″ “C” clamps
  • 2X 6″ “C” clamps
  • Grooved hard maple block and leather strap for holding down the ramrod drill
  • Shop made clamp of spring steel for holding down sights/lugs for soldering
  • Shop made clamping jig for holding butt pieces together for riveting

Files

  • 6″ rat tail bastard round for ferrous metals
  • 8″ square rat tail bastard for ferrous metals
  • 6″ rat tail bastard round for non-ferrous metals
  • 8″ square rat tail bastard for non- ferrous metals
  • 6″ knife edge bastard for ferrous metals
  • 10″ half round bastard for ferrous metals
  • 10″ half round bastard for non-ferrous metals
  • 10″ half round bastard for wood
  • 10″ flat mill for ferrous metals
  • 10″ flat mill for non-ferrous metals
  • 10″ flat bastard for ferrous metals
  • 10″ flat bastard for non-ferrous metals
  • 10″ flat bastard, worn, for breaking forge scale
  • 10″ #49 & #50 Pattern Makers rasps
  • 6″ slim taper triangular for ferrous metals
  • 8″ round bastard, bent tang, broken tip for wood
  • 6″ round smooth, bent tang, for wood
  • 8″ round bastard for wood
  • 8″ round 2nd cut for wood
  • 8″ round 2nd cut for ferrous
  • 8″ round 2nd cut for non-ferrous
  • 8″ round chain saw file for non-ferrous
  • 8″ Extra Slim triangular for non-ferrous
  • 8″ square #1 for non-ferrous
  • 8″ #2 pillar x 1/4″ for ferrous
  • 8″ square bastard, bent tang, broken tip for wood
  • 8″ square bastard rat tail for wood
  • 6″ #2 warding for ferrous
  • 6″ #2 warding for non-ferrous
  • Two sets (ferrous/non-ferrous) 5 1/4″ #2 Swiss needle files
  • Two sets (ferrous/non-ferrous) 6″ #1 Swiss needle files
  • Two sets (ferrous/non-ferrous) 8″ #1 Swiss Habilis Pattern Makers files
  • 6″ Extra Slim taper triangular file for saw sharpening
  • 4″ XX Slim taper triangular file for saw sharpening
  • S21 & S24 slotting files for cutting rear sight slots
  • #2 sight base file for cutting dovetails
  • Bronze brush and small piece of brass sheet for cleaning files
  • Chalk for preventing files from clogging

Forge Tools

  • NC Tool Model 2 propane forge
  • NC Tool Calvary 112 lb farriers anvil on steel stand
  • NC Tool 60 lb swage block on wood stand
  • antique 4″ post vise
  • small offset jaw tong
  • medium straight jaw tong
  • old needle nose pliers
  • old lineman’s pliers
  • old 10″ flat bastard file
  • 1 lb ball pein hammer
  • 2 lb, 2 1/2 lb, 3 lb, 4 lb cross pein hammers
  • ramrod ferrule mandrel
  • welding test rods
  • wire welding brush
  • can of borax and boric acid
  • large popcorn tin of Perlite for annealing
  • 1 gal can of quench oil
  • 10 qt bucket for quench water

Hammers/Mallets

  • 16, 8, 4 oz ball pein
  • brass/nylon head
  • rubber/acrylic head
  • round beech carving mallet
  • lignum vitae mallet
  • 1 oz chasing hammer

Jigs/Fixtures

  • 2x shop made barrel guides for cutting in side walls of barrel channel made from 3/8″ x 48″ square steel bar stock
  • Shop made steel mandrels for forming thimbles along with wood form for thumbnails
  • Shop made iron mandrels/swages(or hose clamps) for forming nose pieces
  • Shop made jig for forming patchbox hinges
  • Shop made hard maple form for shaping patchbox lids and finials
  • Shop made jig for holding trigger guards for filing
  • Shop made jig for holding butt pieces for filing

Measuring/Marking Tools

  • 6″ .001″ dial caliper
  • 6″ fractional dial caliper
  • 1″ .001″ micrometer
  • 2x 12′ tape measures
  • 18″ stainless steel rule
  • 24″ stainless steel rule
  • 3X 6″ stainless steel rules
  • 48″ T-square/straight-edge
  • flat depth guage
  • wire depth guage
  • scratch awl
  • carbide scribe
  • antique compass/divider
  • antique outside caliper
  • antique marking/morticing guage
  • 6″ machinist square
  • 12″ machinist square
  • 2X homemade golden mean dividers
  • Right and Left hand marking knives
  • Beeswax candle in holder
  • Magnum Magic Marker
  • Lots of fine, extra-fine, and ultra-fine black Sharpies

Miscellaneous Tools

  • Picks for removing tight parts
  • Dembart checkering tool
  • Beeswax for lubricating saw blades and screws
  • Optivisors with #3 and #4 lens
  • 10X Loupe for sharpening gravers
  • 3/32″ cobalt steel square gravers ground square and flat in handles made of 1/2″ hex aluminum bar stock
  • China white block (tube of China White watercolor is the same thing) for engraving layout
  • little metal tin with oil(Breakfree) impregnated felt pads for lubricating gravers
  • 2x 1″ roll painters tape
  • Lots of #2(HB) and 4H(engraving layout) pencils
  • Couple of Pink Pearl erasers
  • Sketchbook with all my designs and templates

Planes & Other Edged Tools

  • antique ~10″ straight draw knife
  • 2″ antique wooden spoke shave
  • 2 1/2″ antique wooden spoke shave
  • Stanley #20 block plane
  • Record #4 smooth plane
  • Stanely #7 jointer plane
  • antique 3/4″ round gun stocker’s plane
  • antique 3/4″ gun stocker’s plane reworked to cut 3/4″ octagon
  • Lie Nielson flat and convex model maker’s planes
  • 11/32″ shop made ramrod channel plane
  • 3/8″ shop made ramrod channel plane
  • Shop made scratch stock with blade that cuts forearm and butt stock moulding
  • Modified Swedish knife for carving background removal and cutting in long moulding lines
  • chip carving knife

Pliers/Cutters/Wrenches

  • 9″ Vise Grip staight jaw
  • 7″ needle nose Vise Grips
  • 6″ needle nose pliers
  • small round nose pliers
  • small flat nose pliers
  • small diagonal cutters
  • compound diagonal cutters
  • serrated parallel jaw pliers
  • smooth parallel jaw pliers
  • 12″ Adjustable wrench with jaws ground to a taper for breech plugs
  • Straight aircraft type metal shears

Punches & Cold Chisels

  • Pin punch set – 1/16″ – 1/4″
  • Auto center punch
  • 1/2″ cold chisel
  • 5/8″ cold chisel reground to raise dovetails
  • 1/8″ die sinkers chisel to cut waste out of dovetail slots etc…

Saws

  • Shop made barrel channel saw (resembling stair tread saw) made from a dovetail saw blade (~20ppi rip) with left hand set removed for cutting in barrel channel walls
  • 8″ tenon saw (~22ppi cross-cut)
  • jewelers saw with Swiss, Antelope brand, steel cutting blades, size #1 and #3
  • 26″ cross-cut hand saw, 8 ppi
  • 26″ rip hand saw, 5 1/2 ppi
  • hacksaw with 14, 24, 32 ppi bi-metal (hss teeth – don’t bother with anything else) blades and 14ppi with stop (1/32″) for cutting dovetail slots
  • Shop made saw benches required for using hand saws to cut out stock blank

Scrapers

  • homemade ramrod scraper
  • Jerry Fisher stock scraper set
  • Shop made stock scraper per Kit Ravenshire design
  • scrapers made from utility knife blade
  • Shop made scrapers for barrel channel (octagon – 3/4″, 13/16″, 15/16″) and ramrod groove (round – 3/8″)

Screwdrivers

  • Brownell’s Magna tip set
  • 10 in 1
  • 1/4″ flat
  • 3/16″ flat

Stones/hones

  • ceramic stone set
  • 2″x 6″ DMT Dia-Sharpe 200/325 grit diamond stone
  • 2″x 6″ DMT Dia-Sharpe 600/1200 grit diamond stone
  • homemade leather strop
  • course, medium, fine diamond hones

Taps/Dies

  • “T” handle tap wrench
  • standard tap wrench
  • 6-32, 8-32 & 10-32 tap sets
  • 1/4″-32, 5/16″-32 & 3/8″-32 taps for White Lightning liners

Vises

  • Woodcraft carvers’ or pattern makers’ vise
  • Woodcraft “VersaVise” type vises with plywood jaw liners and a custom made tilt adapter
  • 4 1/2″ machinest’s vise with lead and plywood jaw liners
  • antique watchmakers vise
  • antique hand vise
  • main spring vise


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